Discount available! Get a Discount now! Description Reviews 0 Press-n-peel is designed to be used in conjunction with a laser printer or photocopier. The required layout is simply printed onto the sheet then transferred from the sheet onto a copper clad board.
Ideal for schools, universities and hobbyists. No need for a UV light source. Sold by: eaches Quantity Available: 0. Stock Status: 0. Select Options:. Go to Wish List. Press n peel blue transfer paper. Hi I am from India. However, you can order 1 sheet of PnP through our website. Just click "Add to Cart" and then complete checkout. We are happy to ship to India, although you are correct, with the corona pandemic, international shipments are slower than normal times.
Not Brother printer compatable. We just got a great cyber Monday deal on a Brother laser printer, it's sole task was to print on PnP. For some reason the two are not working well together. Never an issue with an ancient HP, but the IT department took it away cause it was old, but it still worked! Love the Brother for regular use, sharp and crisp, but the PnP prints as though the toner is not solid on the page.
Been trying different things for a few days, all failed to etch properly. I am giving the product five stars because I know it works great, I have used it for years, but be warned about selecting your printer. If it's a color printer, see if you can choose to only print with black toner. I too, loved my ancient HP, but my newish HP is not as wonderful.
PNP Paper Melting. Is this transfer paper just not going to work with this printer? Hopefully that's not the case, but it does sound likely. Or, it might be simpler. Often, specialty papers can only be used in the manual tray, not the main paper tray. You're probably already doing that, but I thought I'd mention it just in case.
And, with one of the laser printers I've used in the past, I always had to manually give heavy paper a PUSH to start it through -- it couldn't make it past the first curves without jamming at least a little bit, which would put weird scuff marks on the page, plus usually did unpleasant things to the image. Good luck!!
I used this PNP film and had success after lots of trouble. After some trial and error I discovered my image adhered after I quenched it in cold water before peeling off the film. Give it a try if you are having trouble. Etching w pnp. I have tried everything but still no luck. I think it has to do with the type of printer and type of toner. I know your printer is 10 years old but please tell me the kind of printer it is the model number and the type of toner that is in it.
One thing we did have to make sure we did, was pick "black only" when printing -- sometimes a color printer will assume you want to print black made up of its preferred percentages of CMYK]. Works Great. Originally I was going the route of many DIY'ers who print projects on glossy paper, then transfer them--using heat--onto metal for etching. I discovered my printer doesn't like glossy stock, so I was at a loss.
This PNP paper saved me! I first tried 20 or so passes through a degree laminator to transfer the image. No go. Be patient: my transfer took over five minutes and still needed a bit of Sharpie correction. Sorry about the Kasabian image! A specialist PCB drill or press mounted hobby drill is a must, I use standard. Some people like to use acrylic spray at the end of soldering to protect the copper from corroding but the problem with this is that it makes it impossible to modify or repair the PCB in the future.
You simply just spray it on the board after cleaning and it protects the board from corrosion. If anyone has any further questions or ideas about improvement, feel free to comment below and I will try my best to reply. I want to add that, in my experience if you change your toner, it's best to stick with the same brand as you last used or the brand of your printer. I tried to get away with an aftermarket cartridge and it didn't stick whatsoever.
I'll add my name to the "Can't make a print using Brother LJ" list. Using an HL Despite setting rez to max and "Toner Save" OFF, it doesn't lay down enough "ink" to make a good mask. Any Brother Techs lurking? I'd love to know how to use this printer. After that, things worked much better.
Tried baking board in the oven but used too much clamp pressure and had major bleeding of traces. Ironing worked best for me. I'll also add my name to the "Drill board after masking but before etching" list. After etching I found it difficult to properly locate the drill points. I'd never heard of this press n peel, but I will be getting some for my future projects, I hate the mess left by photo paper.
For preventing corrosion I use immerse tin powder. Reply 4 years ago. Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. FYI, I've had really good results with this cheap toner transfer paper from China. I just print and use an iron to transfer to PCB. It comes right off after soaking the board in water for just a minute or two.
I had a look for alternatives but its hard to tell sometimes if its actually the same stuff. So its more like using glossy paper where you soak? It has a glossy coating on it, so yes, it's kind of like glossy paper, but I never had luck with that. This stuff works good and you don't have to fight to get it off.
My only complaint is that they send it rolled up so you need to put it under some books for a few days to flatten out. It was like a breeze first time, but I am planning to try again to get thing right with that paper. I've ruined two laser printer cartridges using P-n-P Blue. It'd have been cheaper for me to have sent the boards out to be made.
Because laser printer cartridges are not exactly cheap. Interesting, my printer is a HP Laserjet so much more budget and newer. Perhaps it is something to do with the way and temperature it is fused at its the risk of feeding odd stock through your laser printer! I ruined similar HP called when I fed sticker paper through and it stuck round the fuser roller!
Yeah something stuck to the rollers running P-n-P Blue through my printer. Then everything it printed would have toner all over it, like a bad mimeograph.
I tried to clean the rollers, but once it's done, it's done. When I go back to etching again I will try photoresist out. Transfer is pretty low resolution anyways. When it works for a lot of stuff it is great I suppose. But I've had my problems with it too. Reply 5 years ago.
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